A "Family" View of the School Community

The more time we spend at A.V. Bukani, the more we become part of the fabric of the school and the community. Children call out to us across the school yard with phrases from the books we’ve read in their classrooms or songs we’ve sung with them.  Mothers welcome us as Nosango and Tando, names they gave us in 2009.  Teachers enjoy photos of Sara’s children, remembering that on her last visit here in 2010, she was pregnant with her older child Maxine. We wear the traditional dress that was given to us in 2008 on formal occasions like the farewell for Randi and Steve, and the teachers and families hug us and want to take pictures with us. We are part of them, and they are part of us.

But just as we see the wonderful aspects of life here, we also see the challenges more clearly because we are no longer treated as guests, but as family.  Life is hard here. We are reminded on a daily basis, on an hourly basis, just how easy life is for a white middle-class person in the U.S.  Our life here is certainly different than home, but still…

Muddy streets from overbearing, cold rain--

For us: We scrape mud off our shoes and put on dry ones.

For them: Children in shoes a size too small, with no socks, and threadbare clothes shiver or don’t come to school at all.

Municipal water that is unreliable--

For us: We drink from the bottled water we always carry.

For them: An hour, a day, a week with no clean water for all your needs.

Illness and death--

For us: We mourn the teacher friend that we lost.

For them: Weekends are filled with funerals for family, friends and colleagues of every age. This week, one teacher lost two young cousins from illness, another lost a sister-in-law from an accident slipping in the mud, and the mother of the president of the SGB (a parent board with governing rights in the school) died on Thursday. That’s just the ones we know about.

Eye glasses-

For us: A postponed eye exam because of our time here.

For them: A school of 1000 learners with only a handful wearing glasses. Others squint at the board or put their faces ½ inch from the page of the book. How much could they be learning if they could see the words?

While on our first trip to South Africa, on a 2006 tour with multi-cultural educators, we heard great optimism about the “new South Africa.” Today, there is tremendous frustration with the lack of services provided by the government. Fraud and embezzlement at every level are rampant, starting with the president Jacob Zuma, whom a watchdog group found used nearly $18,000,000 of taxpayers' money to turn his private home into a display of "opulence on a grand scale." He just took on his 5th wife, which appalls people of every culture we spoke with.

Yet Zuma is with the ANC – the African National Congress – the party of Nelson Mandela. And the majority feel they cannot leave that party or they will dishonor Mandela’s legacy.  But they don’t know how their children will feel when it is their turn to vote…

There is a consistent disappointment in the services provided through the Ministry of Basic Education. The Minister Angie Motshekga has admitted the problems herself, issuing an open letter apologizing to grade 12 pupils in 2012. She wrote: "I know 2012 has not been an easy year for you. I also understand that you may feel I ... have let you down. I apologise unreservedly for all you have been through as a pupil." Not much has changed. Just a few days ago, Motshekga stated at a public forum, “Things are quite bad, I’m sorry to say.”

American-born filmmaker Molly Blank, who now creates compelling documentaries about South African education wrote that Motshekga’s apology “devastated me, not because of what she said but because of the fact that the government's neglect of pupils compelled her to say it.”

But Molly went on to document high schools that work, despite the odds of incredible poverty and few resources https://vimeo.com/schoolsthatwork .  Her book and videos, ‘How to Fix South Africa’s Schools: Lessons from Schools that Work” (http://bookstorm.bookslive.co.za/blog/2014/04/04/molly-blank-and-jonathan-jansens-how-to-fix-south-africas-schools-launched-with-john-maytham/) sends an important message, particularly about the power of school leadership.  As in the United States, the power of a principal cannot be denied. And the “hidden curriculum” of the “emotions and attitude” of the teachers is as critical as the “formal curriculum,” a teacher at one highly successful school stated. Her project was commissioned by Jonathan Jansen, Vice Chancellor at the University of the Free State, an education champion in South Africa.

The educators and the families at Bukani teach us to take the long view. Not everything can be done now, but progress can be made bit by bit. We do see progress at A.V. Bukani.  We do see a strong leadership team of Prinicipal Zilindile Thambo and Deputy Principal Ace Lamani. We continue to have hope this school will build on successes, despite challenges and set-backs.  

We come to recognize that we, steeped in our privilege, don’t have the right to get frustrated when committed teachers come to school, despite illness and loss, to better the lives of their children; and students come to school through the mud and the rocks and who-knows-what, eager to learn.

Commitment

Larry has been working with several teachers that he had not worked with before.  Their commitment is impressive.  One teacher buried two young cousins within the past week, but still came to school, sat right next to Larry, took notes on the guided reading process as she watched, and then planned and did two introductory lessons herself. Another was sick all week but dragged herself to school each day to make sure she was in class when Larry was demonstrating.

Larry did professional development three days this past week. He presented information about beginning reading development and guided reading. After a full day of teaching under challenging conditions, the teachers came and listened intently and were engaged in the session. They asked some thought provoking questions, and only when their sole means of transportation was departing did some of them leave.

Lumka , a grade-four teacher Larry has worked with since our first visit, looked around the room of her peers and stated that they needed to continue meeting like this, discussing teaching practices, sharing their successes and challenges, and improving as professionals. No one disagreed.  Heads nodded in agreement.

After another session on Thursday that ended with no comments or questions after Larry’s presentation (maybe Larry wasn’t the only one who was tired), one of the grade R (kindergarten) teachers, Yolanda, came to talk to him. She wanted him to know that what he was sharing with them was “powerful," even for the foundation phase.

At our weekly debriefing with Paul from Calabash, the organization that organizes volunteers for Bukani and other township schools, the teachers Larry works with spoke of the progress, although slow, they see in the struggling learners Larry asked to work with. They see hope and so does Larry, both for their learners and for the teachers. It will take time, but here in South Africa, in the eastern Cape, in Nomatansanqa, at A. V. Bukani Primary School, they are taking the long view and so are we.

Parents Trek Through the Mud

Eileen’s parent programs continue to build, as parents trek through the rain and the mud to make sure they are part of these. The mothers and grandmothers share some drawings their children made with accompanying letters, words, or stories.

This coming week, the weather looks good on meeting days. The principal sent a note home to all the families about the meetings, highlighting that “parents are the child’s first teacher.” The orange picking season is slowing down a bit so more parents may be available.  Who knows who we will see this week…

Excitement at both ends of the scale

Randi’s work with writing at the upper grades showed there are some solid skills being developed in the language arts. This week we also saw evidence of other areas of knowledge.

Principal Thambo teaches Natural Sciences to the older learners and he came in beaming on Thursday. He gave the students the assignment of building an electric circuit, with the project due on Monday. One group completed the assignment two days early.

At the other end, there is much excitement surrounding new classrooms and play areas for Grade R next year. Three spacious double-classrooms are under construction with three additional covered play areas. They are already painted bright primary colors with built-in cubbies. The Grade R teachers at Bukani are loving and full of life. We can only imagine the learning that will blossom at what South African educators rightly call “the foundation phase.”

 

So how do we feel as we enter our fourth and final week here?  Life here is engaging, rewarding, hopeful, frustrating, fascinating, inspiring, devastating, enriching, joyful, depressing, emotional … and exhausting. On Friday we packed up for the weekend in the nearby city, thinking we are worn out and ready to leave next week. And on Friday, we sang with the learners and tearfully wondered how we could leave next week.

Eileen and Larry a/k/a
Nosango and Thando

Lessons We Learn

We come to South Africa not only in the hope of improving the lives of others, but to be changed ourselves. Our work through Calabash Tours and their international partner, People and Places: Responsible Tourism, is all about respecting the values and strengths of the communities that volunteers work with. With that overarching principle, we are taught lessons by the people we work with and those we meet every single day. 

Randi and Steve Adleberg, our friends and colleagues these two weeks, joined in the lessons. Here’s how Randi put it:

  “When we went to Port Elizabeth last weekend I wanted to stock up on TP, pencils, pens, crayons, poster paper, etc. Eileen pointed out, ‘So you buy toilet paper for the school; it will last a week. Then what?’ Our goal here is to make sustainable changes in education, not to provide consumables. The students and staff are used to working with the supplies they have. And the learning occurs--even without all the school supplies we, in The States, find so necessary. 

  “Do I wish the learners had supplies?  Do I wish I could xerox and distribute practice work instead of writing it on the board over and over again?  Of course I do. Would it speed things up? Undoubtedly. Does it make a difference in what they learn?  I don't think so. 

  “Here are all the things they DO have. Ace taught a lesson on electricity yesterday. He started with a web centered around the words, electrical power. He asked the students to list all the things they could think of that use electricity. ‘Fridge!’ ‘Stove!’ ‘Lights!’ ‘TV!’ ‘Cell phone!’ ‘Computer!’ they all shouted.  And the families do have most of these things (although few have computers, and cell phones still need ‘minutes’ to be purchased to make them work).

  "But more importantly, I think, they have free time!  They have two recesses at school, and time to run around, and play, and just be kids. Several of the kids are on sports teams: soccer and rugby mostly. I have at least one student who takes karate. (He has his yellow belt.)  And I have noticed older kids who run on the dry afternoons. But they do not seem crazed with extra-curricular activities. Everything is at a more comfortable pace. And people do not let lack of the best sports equipment stop them from being excellent athletes.  

  “I've learned many things from my two weeks at the A.V. Bukani School, not the least of which is that quality of life is not dependent upon how quickly we achieve our goals, or on how many material goods we possess, but on taking the time to savor what we do have.”

The lesson hit home on Thursday again, when the school community gave Randi and Steve one of their grand farewell parties. As the teachers were preparing for it, Randi said, "They don’t need to do this. We have such little time with them and there is so much pressure on them already." 

Eileen responded that this is indeed what they want and need to do. What we have learned is that this is an essential part of the school’s life – Celebrations and showing of appreciation are not to be ignored for “serious work.” They come first. And oh yes, as much as they mourned last week, they celebrated this week, showing appreciation for educators who come so far to share their skills and their hearts.

The teachers, and some of the students regaled us in song and dance, and prayer. "Thank you, God, for sending Steve and Randi to us. Thank you, God, for giving them the skills, so that they could teach them to us."  

Randi and Steve made a huge contribution in their time here. What draws us back here year after year is the belief that the strategies and knowledge (and caring) shared with the teachers make a profound difference in the school community. 

We see that reflected in the teachers and students this year. Seven years after our first visit, teachers at A.V. Bukani immediately trust people of another race and another country in mutual respect, are engaged in strategies shared in their classrooms, and request and attend after school professional development. And, we see it in the READING and now the WRITING (!!) of the older students.

The volunteers with Principal Thambo and Ace Lamani.
Eileen & Larry honor the community by wearing the traditional
dress made for them by the mothers in 2008.

Randi came with fresh eyes, with high expectations for the older students (higher than we admit we even had). They responded. She and her mentor/mentee Ace Lamani, the Deputy Principal and teacher, learned a great deal from each other.

Steve came with a willingness to share and to learn from his co-teacher, Ben Tenato, the upper grades math teacher and head of the math department in the school. "Thank you for the honor of being part of your school community," Steve said at their farewell.

Ben noted his deep appreciation for Steve’s openness and support: “He did not come to judge me. We taught together and we were like a team that had been together a long time,” Ben said. “Every time he demonstrated a lesson, it became clear to me what I was missing, what I needed to do to improve.”

Ben using techniques from Steve 

Steve in the classroom

Randi’s last lesson for her students was on letter writing. She wrote this letter on the board. 

The students in each class wrote letters back to be mailed to her. Some could not wait and handed her letters as she was leaving. They were all in tears (Randi, too). Here are snippets:

“Thank you, about everything you have done for me, teaching me that education is important.

“I don’t know how to thank you. But thank you, Randi. It was nice having you around. I wish that God could bless you.”

“Thank you, for [teaching] some things that we are going to never forget in our lives.”

“I have no words to say, but I want you to always remember that you will always be at our hearts. Thank you Randi. You were like a mother to us.”

 “I want you to know that you are one of the people I admire and inspire me to do well and be great at work.”

 

“You were a very supportive teacher. You taught me to not laugh at another person.”

“I’m going to miss your smile.”

Where else do you make a life-changing impact like that in two weeks?

Two More Weeks for the Kuglers

We have two more weeks to go and we appreciate the extra time we have this year, grateful we decided to stay a month instead of our typical three weeks.

Larry is in the midst of working with the teachers in Grades 2, 3 and 4 on Guided Reading. What Randi has seen and reported about the reading and writing skills and excitement in grades 6 and 7 has inspired Larry in his work.  

Since the last time we were here in 2012, when grade 4 was the highest grade, we can now see the possibilities and the fruition of the work that Larry, Sara, and Cecily began in 2008. Since these grade 6 and 7 learners have had three additional years of opportunities to talk, read, and write in English since our last visit, their potential has been unleashed and many of them converse easily and effectively in English.

It is important to note that English is not spoken anywhere in their community, other than by the teachers during English class. This is not an immersion into a language all around them. It is swimming upstream to learn an essential and required skill if they are to continue in higher education and in commerce in the broader South African society. It is the reason we all created a library of quality books in English for this township.

The lesson for Larry this year: While progress may be slow, progress is indeed taking place!

This progress has fueled Larry’s commitment to provide small-group guided reading to the teachers’ array of teaching techniques. The previously introduced techniques of think-pair-share, read aloud, and the use of big books have been integrated into the fiber of instruction, more effectively in some classes than in others, but noticeably in most classes that teach English. The goal is now to develop a small group approach that can be used to meet the more specific needs of individual learners. Larry will continue to model the approach and then transfer responsibility to the teachers with whom he works to help them develop this skill.

They can then share this approach with other teachers in the school.  Slowly but surely they have done this with the other techniques and we know they can do the same with guided reading. With two more weeks in the school during our current visit, we are encouraged by the progress Nombulelo (grade 2), and Melene and Coke (grade 3) have made and optimistic about the future

Things Do Work Out

Eileen continues her work to connect with the families in the township and in the broader community. Her big lesson (which she learns over and over again!): patience. Used to being able to see the big picture and strategize the little steps needed to get there, Eileen finds that sometimes the little steps don’t work here. Or sometimes you don’t know they are working. Or sometimes the big picture is really years, not days away. But in the end, things do start to work, at just the pace they were supposed to. Patience. Patience and faith.

Getting parents together is a challenge this time of year. The main employment in the township is in the orange groves, and this is the height of picking season. Parents are working long shifts throughout the day and evening, picking and packing the fruit. The frequent rain, unusual this time of year, has made it even more difficult because the fruit can’t be picked when it is wet. So when the weather is sunny, the shifts are long and may carry into the weekend.

Despite this challenge, Eileen held a successful parent meeting this week, with twelve mothers and grandmothers there helping plan four more meetings over the next two weeks. They were all women Eileen had worked with over the years and they were very eager to reconnect. She worked with them on helping create a love of books with their children, and they indeed enjoyed having books in their hands.

Eileen is going to share simple ways families can support their children’s learning at home. In addition, one of the leaders of the township is helping organize a knitting program as part of the meetings, to knit scarves and hats in the school colors for the students who don’t have them. Several of the women will cook dinners for all the participants, so even workers from the grove can get off the busses and come right to school.

Eileen also gets the fun opportunity to read and sing in English with the youngest learners. Boy, do they love "Brown Bear"!  They already know a few rhymes and songs in English as the school is working to introduce English as early as possible. 

One other lesson Eileen learned was from one of the teacher leaders at the school, a caring teacher committed to making the school a place where all children can get the education they need. When Eileen told her how much she respect the hard work Mrs. Sam puts in every day to make the place better, the teacher said, “If everything is perfect, you never learn. You must make progress every day.”

So perfection is not the goal… learning is. True words of wisdom.

Eileen and Larry

It's oh so good to be back...

We are back in South Africa for our 5th visit and it feels comfortable and right -- like visiting old friends or family.  Considering this has been our 13th week here over the years, that makes sense.

Our first week back is truly one of contrasts. We were looking forward to the joyous reunion with our colleagues at A.V. Bukani Primary. But Sunday, we heard the challenging news. One of the teacher leaders at the school, Mandisa Mbande, just passed away. Mandi was one of the teachers we were closest to. She lived in the township and often spent time with us after school. Larry and Sara both worked with her. It is a real loss to the school and to the community.

So instead of hugs of joy, there were hugs of mutual grief. As sad as we are, we are glad to be able to mourn together. During the week,  the faculty planned and took part in a prayer service for Mandi’s family at their home and a memorial service at a church, each at 1 p.m. on school days. The students were dismissed early and many of teachers were working on the plans during the school day, also practicing hymns with students. We attended the weekday services with them, and also attended the funeral on Saturday. (More details later in this blogpost.)

The school is also facing some shortages of teachers. For a number of reasons, including serious illness, several of the strong teachers we have worked with are no longer here, in contrast to previous years when the school faculty was very stable from year to year. A.V. Bukani is also transitioning to a R (K) to 7th grade school, as is the school on the other side of the township which had been a middle school.  So there are some new classes in 5, 6, and 7th grade, requiring extra teachers.

Some of the teachers are literally doubling up their time, going from classroom to classroom, getting one group started on some work and then going into the classroom next door. If a teacher is out for a day or two, there are no substitute teachers, so a class of 35-40 may suddenly have another 20 for the day while that class is divided among the teachers who are there. A new teacher was just hired, with two more expected next week. But at the moment, the teachers feel a great deal of pressure.

Even with the sadness, the schedule disruptions, and the teacher shortage, the faculty worked hard to take advantage of our time. We see some things that let us know real progress is being made.

Ace sharing some of the strategies
he's learned on literacy 

We are most excited about the appointment of our friend Ace Lamani as Deputy Principal, with a focus on academics. Ace is a true life-long learner. He is eager to hear about every strategy, every bit of information, that can help him with his “learners” -- their word for “students” and one we think is more appropriate. He recently finished his honors degree, including some of the strategies Larry and Sara taught him over the years, which he incorporated into his thesis. He has impressively stepped up to this leadership position.

Literacy in the Upper Grades

We have brought several priceless resources with us this year – our friends and colleagues Randi and Steve Adleberg.  We enjoy having colleagues to process the day’s activities and brainstorm together.  In addition to their duties throughout the school, Randi made numerous contributions to this blog and Steve took many of the photos.

Randi, who recently retired as a secondary language arts teacher in Fairfax County has been assigned to work directly with Ace who still teaches many classes for 5th, 6th, and 7th graders.  Ace gave her full authority to jump in and work with his learners.  After observing his classroom for the first day, she quickly went to the library, and pulled out some books at different levels. With all the stresses on the teachers to teach “the required curriculum,” taking books out of the library has become something of a luxury, unfortunately. But Randi has been reigniting enthusiasm for the books with the students, and modeling how books chosen by the students are essential to enhance literacy. 

A key lesson that we learn and relearn in South Africa is flexibility. Here’s how Randi described her first week to some close friends back home:

Randi working with learners and **library books**

 “I think I am a very different teacher here than I was at home. I have learned quickly not to worry about time. At home, I carefully planned daily lessons so that I could fit certain goals into the class time periods. Here, though, the schedule never stays the same, so I am learning to start activities regardless of time constraints. If I start something they can’t finish, no worries. We continue the next day.

“I am also learning to accept background noise. At home, I was not shy about going into the hallway to ask other students to quiet down. Here, I can’t exactly ask the cows to stop lowing, or the roosters to stop crowing; so I don’t shush the loud students when they pass the classroom door. The learners in the classroom are used to these noises and work in spite of them.”

Supporting Math

Steve Adleberg’s multi-faceted background as a teacher and principal includes working as a math specialist, so he was assigned to work with Ben, a wonderful teacher of math at the upper grades.  We are happy that Ben finally has some professional development, as most of our work has focused on literacy.

Ben and Steve and manipulatives 

Steve brought with him math manipulatives, thanks to mutual friend Linda Braverman. He discovered that the school district had already sent the school a box of manipulatives that had never been opened. (This just confirms our belief that resources without training do not get used).  Steve and Ben spent some time learning to work with the manipulatives and will introduce them to the lower grade teachers next week.

Steve also worked with Ben on strategies for solving math word problems. When Larry taught the learners a new song – “Children, Go Where I Send Thee” – Steve typed up the words, which build on increasing numbers. He used it as the basis for some math word problems in Ben’s classes, integrating math and language arts.

“Larry’s Song”

Larry accompanies a second grade class learning an
English rhyme

Speaking of Larry singing, neither the learners nor the teachers have forgotten Larry’s guitar.  The last time we were at the school three years ago, we finished our volunteer visit with a school-wide sing-a-long of “She’ll be Coming ‘Round the Mountain.” Larry came with new songs, ready to move on, but oh no, he will not get away without singing what has become “Larry’s Song” in the school!  We laugh that younger learners who had never met Larry before this week still call it “Larry’s Song.”

Larry is building on the groundwork he laid with Sara and Cecily and in subsequent years when he carried on alone. This year he plans to work on guided reading, with our luggage brimming with specialized books for small group work.  The first week was spent solidifying the previous strategies with the teachers he is working with, some new to the school. It was heartwarming to see some teachers using Big Books, think-pair-share, and active read-alouds.

While skill proficiency varies widely, we are truly seeing readers in the upper grades. Ace has looped with a group of learners from 4th to 5th to 6th Their progress is impressive. Randi is introducing writing, and revision,  and is enthusiastic about the engagement of the students.  She’ll be sharing these strategies with more teachers next week.

Eileen is slipping into a variety of roles. She read and did finger-play rhymes with 2nd graders. She reconnected with the wonderful municipal librarian to gain guidance on setting up the new computerized library system. And she began laying the foundation for parent meetings on supporting their children’s literacy development. She also helped the teachers with the memorial service, such as creating a slide show of photos of Mandi that included a number with our family over the years.

It Never Rains in Nomathamsanqa

We told Randi and Steve to prepare for arid conditions, with a warm sun mid-day helping with the cold weather. Ha! Climate change has hit here and it has rained most of the week. Of course this area needs rain, so we can’t complain.

There are few paved roads and the others are rutted and covered with a combination of just plain mud and the occasional droppings from the neighborhood goats or dogs, or cattle who roam along the side of the road. We were sure our ride back to the guest house where we are staying was going to get stuck in the mudded road, but our driver somehow managed to get his tires rolling through it. So glad WE are not driving!

The rain makes everything a bit more complicated, and attendance drops when it rains all day. But most make due. The learners here are often given responsibilities that they fulfill proudly. The day after the memorial service for Mandi, Randi wrote: “Classes were delayed this morning while we waited for students to bring back the chairs they had carried several blocks to the church in town for yesterday’s service. The school children here willingly take on chores. Every morning, as they walk onto the school grounds, they pick up trash to throw away. When they get to their classrooms, they sweep the sidewalks outside the door. During break, they sweep the rooms.”

This rain is a totally new experience for us here. Randi’s words: “Due to the rain, the mud around the school is plentiful and slick! Everyone’s shoes are coated. To stay clean, the main office entrance has torn cardboard boxes for foot mats. Smells like rotted paper and cow dung. The mud we all track into the classrooms dries by the afternoon. After classes, several learners stayed behind to lift and move the student desks and sweep the classroom floor. Every Friday, lessons end at noon so that the children can remove all the furniture from their classrooms and thoroughly clean the rooms as well as the office area.”

With everything going on, there still manages to be education. The principal is a true force of nature, a well-respected leader who just knows how to get things done. “Most of my friends are politicians and they tell me I should leave this hopeless job and go into politics,” Mr. Thambo tells Eileen. “But I must stay here because this is important work. As Mandiba said, ‘It is not enough that you were born, but what matters is how you have used your life to improve the lives of ordinary people.’”

Sharing in the Grief for a Friend

We know that there are many funerals in the township – far too many. The day of Mandi’s funeral, there is another funeral for one of two young men who died in a tragic car accident nearby - a brother and brother-in-law, so one woman lost both a husband and brother. The young man buried that day had just earned his degree and begun a job.  Many of the mourners wore a tee shirt with his picture on it.

With Mandi in her green sweater
on our first visit in 2008

The sun came out on Saturday as we went to Mandi’s funeral. The township looked refreshed, cleaned by the rains. The warmth of the sun felt so good. The funeral is packed with mourners.  The funeral service, as with everything here, is a cultural experience for us. Hymns are not just recited, they are sung with enthusiasm, dancing, and extensive harmonies. The “passing of the peace” is full of intense hugging and singing. The service goes on for 3 ½ hours, most of it in Xhosa. The speakers speak with their full body, so it is fascinating to just watch the body language. In both the Memorial Service and funeral, Larry and Eileen are recognized and asked to stand. We are made to feel welcome in many ways. We are a bit embarrassed, but the family tells us that they are warmed by our presence. We are honored to be part of the community.

Weekend Visit to an Informal Settlement

On Saturday, Randi and Steve took a township tour in Port Elizabeth (PE) through Calabash Tours, which we strongly recommend. Before Apartheid, many black people had good jobs and good homes on the PE harbor. Under Apartheid, blacks were removed from their homes, some in thriving multiethnic communities, and forced into isolated townships. The blacks no longer had access to good jobs or employment at all. Today, unemployment is still a major concern.

The townships across South Africa today include homes of varying levels, from the original small mud huts to middle-class homes. They are often places with a strong sense of community and a thriving culture. In addition to townships, there are informal settlements, basically squatter camps, that house the poorest of the poor, as they do in other countries. Those who can’t afford housing will create what they can in a settlement.

We all were dinner guests at a private home in one of the informal settlements surrounding Port Elizabeth. From Randi: "The settlement we visited is on the site where a hospital once stood. Children still find old needles in the dirt. The houses are corrugated shacks. No indoor plumbing. (Just a few outdoor pumps shared by many families.) No electricity. No bathrooms. No paved roads. Definitely no sidewalks! The streets are all mud and dirt. No trees. No playgrounds or fields."

Our host told us that she and her husband came from a northern rural area of South Africa to look for work in the city of Port Elizabeth about 15 years ago. They created a two-room home in the settlement for themselves and eventually their three children. Her husband has worked as a security guard and a truck driver. She sells beaded jewelry that she makes. The furniture was comfortable and the small home welcoming.

Our Calabash guide told us that his family also had lived in a settlement at one point. His father was involved in anti-Apartheid efforts and their home was destroyed by those in power. His father was able to eventually move their family to a large culture-rich township nearby.

After Apartheid, when Mandela became president, he ordered the building of 1,000,000 free and renovated homes to improve the housing of blacks, many of whom were forced to live in mud huts under Apartheid. A fraction of these were built, and nationwide, tens of thousands still wait for homes. The family we visited is "on the list" for one of these homes, but has been waiting for years. Eventually all homes in the informal settlement will be destroyed once residents have new homes.

More observations from Randi: “Our hostess prepared a feast for us! Rice, green salad, potato salad, bean salad, beets, fried chicken, and beef. It was delicious. Although the settlement has no electricity, the people who live there ‘borrow,’ or buy, it from neighboring developments that have electricity. The house we visited had several electrical wires, and cables running from outside and down the center post of the house. A TV was on the entire time we were there, although muted. We also noticed a washing machine in a small shed attached to the house. 

"The main house consisted of two rooms. In the main room, the kitchen area is separated from the living room by a several large chairs with a large low coffee table. That's where we ate. 

The second room is the master bedroom. The three children (a boy and two girls) sleep in a small room that is attached to the house, but has a separate entrance, just outside the front door of the main room. 

"There are no indoor bathrooms. Each shack has a 'bucket system' (a/k/a outhouse).  The ‘system’ works like this: the family fills the bucket with excrement and municipal trucks pick up the buckets once a week. 

"Despite these stark living conditions, the children play, and run, and laugh just like the kids in our neighborhoods at home. The parents worry about their children, as all parents do. And they want good education and promising futures for their children. They are just like us.”

The faces that greet us each day:

Eileen and Larry